From On Board Swan Hellenic Diana in the Indian Ocean: Assumption Island

#expeditioncruising .

(c) Gennadiy Skorokhod/Swan Hellenic

Our last landing in Seychelles is at the curiously christened Assumption Island, named not after some unverified discovery but rather the Catholic Feast. In 1756, the French East India Company Captain Corneille Nicolas Morphey claimed the island for France along with all the Seychelles.

At less than 12 sq km, the island has endured a tempestuous past at the hands of its colonial masters. Variously exploited as a coconut plantation, guano mine, and strategic outpost, it still maintains its importance as a biological reserve and a potential tourism destination.

“The western beach is one of the most important turtle nesting sites in all of the Seychelles,“ Roderic Mast, president of the Oceanic Society and a sea turtle expert, tells me, “I walked the whole length and found dozens of nesting sites as well as the remains of dead turtles.”

All that is left of a once very large Green Sea Turtle (RE)

To this day, Assumption is still a source of dispute amongst Seychellois. Factions within the government want to continue to exploit the island's appeal. At time of writing, a development proposal for a 5-star resort has been approved and work begun. The state-owned Islands Development Company (IDC) has granted the development to Qatar-based Highness Consultancy which will occupy around one percent of the island's area. The proposal also includes an expansion of the basic 1980s-built airstrip to international standard. 

IDC commuter aircraft boarding passengers at Assumption (IDC supplied)

“In my opinion, the environmental impact has not been properly assessed,” Guy Esperon, a highly experienced Australian-Seychellois guide aboard SH Diana tells me, “it will have a huge impact on the biosecurity of the Aldabra Group (of which Assumption is a part) and I believe all the islands in the group should be protected the same as Aldabra.”

Currently, the 1200 m concrete airstrip (FSAS) is used by the IDC fleet of 20-seat commuter aircraft to land supplies and staff, who are then ferried the 27 km to Aldabra by tender.

Failed attempt. A small unfinished resort lies forlorn behind the beach. (RE)

While most of the guests frolic in the crystal clear waters off the beach, I stroll along the perimeter road examining an apparently abandoned coastal monitoring station installed by the Indian Government in a lapsed cooperative arrangement. A tiny resort complex lies incomplete and similarly abandoned at the base of a tall transmission tower, never having welcomed a guest. 

Giant tortoise enjoys a leafy snack (RE)

Further along, I meet a pair of giant tortoises munching contentedly on the dry, fallen leaves. I find some moist green leaves to supplement their meagre diet. In the coastal undergrowth, a few metres beyond, tiny birds flutter in the dense foliage, and at the end of my walk, I find the scattered and sun-bleached remains of a very large sea turtle, presumably the one Roderic later referenced. 

So, on the slow, splashy Zodiac ride back to the SH Diana, the 60hp Yamaha buzzing in my ear, I find myself pondering the state of the world's islands and oceans yet again, hoping that by visiting these remote habitats aboard ships like ours will draw attention to their plight and maybe turn the tide in their favour.

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