From On Board Swan Hellenic Diana in the Indian Ocean: Tortoise Time

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Location: Aldabra Atoll, Seychelles
Vessel: SH Diana IMO 9921740
Itinerary: Paradise Isles of the Indian Ocean

We can count ourselves fortunate to be among the maybe 1,000 visitors annually who visit this remote outpost. An outer island of the Seychelles, it was UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1982 and is the world's second-largest coral atoll (after Kiribati). 

Alice Armand, a senior field research
officer with the Seychelles Island Foundation.
Listen to her

UNESCO listed it because it is a breeding ground for several vital species, most notably the giant tortoises (Aldabrachelys gigantea) that lumber around the island in vast numbers. Researchers confidently estimate the population has recovered after near-disastrous over-harvesting in the 19th century.

“We think there may be more than 150,000 individuals now on the island,” Alice Armand, a senior field research officer with the Seychelles Island Foundation, tells me, “but not more than 200,000.”

By any reckoning that is a great success story.

The other signature species is a flightless rail (Dryolimnas (cuvieri) aldabranus) much like the little ones who scamper around Lord Howe Island. Introduced predators like cats and rats have destroyed populations elsewhere in the Indian Ocean, so this little fellow is a vital genetic survivor.

The many beaches inside the huge lagoon play host to nesting Hawksbill Turtles, while the much more common green sea turtle prefers the outer shoreline. Inside the lagoon small reef sharks and various stingrays can be found and I'm even informed a dugong or two.”

“I've been here six months,” senior ranger Elma tells me, “and we've never seen them yet. We have healthy sea grass beds inside the lagoon, so that is where they have been seen.”

Despite the idyllic location, researchers are isolated for most of the year. (RE)

Researchers and rangers like Alice and Elma have their work cut out for them here. Despite the idyllic tropical setting, it's no paradise posting. Supplies are only delivered twice a year and there is no fresh water apart from what they can harvest during the rains. 

The majority of the conservation effort is directed at eradicating the pest species that predate on the young birds, turtles, and tortoises. Introduced by earlier sailors and settlers, cats, rats, and goats have played havoc on the endemic flora and fauna. I inspect a couple of gleaming new steel wire traps about to be strategically placed amongst the mangroves, of which Aldabra has seven species.

Of course, no visit is complete without a visit to the gift shop, where T-shirts, carved keyrings, and sundry souvenirs are eagerly snapped up. And my little logbook earns another stamp. 

For more information about the conservation work taking place on Aldabra, see; www.sif.sc

ExpeditionCruising.com editor and publisher, Roderick Eime., travelled with assistance from Swan Hellenic and Expedition Cruise Specialists. Go here for a ship review of SH Diana

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